| | MONTHLY BYLINE
Mia Katrin's monthly syndicated Byline column Jewelry By Design appears in multiple magazines and newspapers, including Southern Jewelry News, Mid America Jewelry News, Jewelry Crafts Magazine, Adornment, http://www.bestofartists.com/jewel-couture/ and http://miakatrin.com.
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SJTA Atlanta Jewelry Show Fashion Wrap Up
Fall and Holiday Preview
It was all glamour and glitz at the SJTA Atlanta Show August 7-9 at the Cobb Galleria. A new feature—“Jewelry on the Catwalk,” a fashion show with live models featuring some of the top designers at the show—stole the day, receiving rave reviews. Models strutting the runway wearing ensembles of top selling pieces created an exciting atmosphere of fashion and fun, helping buyers visualize combinations and making the jewelry come alive.
Some of the hottest trends gleaned from the show, key trends to watch for during the fall into the holiday season:
· Big and Bold
Big and bold are in. “We’re noticing a lot more interest, from designers and retailers alike, in big, bold statement pieces,” Belle Etoile shares. “We’re anticipating large bangles, chokers, and rings in every retailer window display, especially as we get closer to the holiday season.”
Barbara Garwood echoes, “Big and bountiful are in. My large stone rings sold very well—stones up to 18 x 25 mm. My most popular pendants on multi-strands of pearls with gems give a large presence to the entire piece.”
Alwand Vahan’s bold beautiful bangles in silver and gold accented with diamonds, stacked or single, favored by celebrities, sparkled at the fashion show.
· Color, color, color!
“Color was big at this show,” reveals Belle Etoile. “We had great response to our vivid enamel pieces. Many of our retailers use color and vibrancy to attract a new fashion-conscious clientele. Our chocolate-brown Italian rubber with champagne and coffee gems resonates with warm, rich earthy tones that are surging for the fall season.”
Cool blue is hot! Turquoise, Pantone’s color of the year 2010, continues to spark excitement. Mia Katrin for JEWEL COUTURE’s Golden Waves necklace of large blue topaz briolettes and 14 karat gold, featured throughout the Atlanta show magazine, remains a top best seller.
Barbara Garwood concurs. “My designs in London blue topaz stone were one of my best sellers.”
Look for warm earth tones into the fall—gold, chocolate, rust and champagne—to rule the season. Honora’s cherry colored pearls are among their top best sellers. As we move into the holidays, customers will reach for rich, vibrant jewel tones across the spectrum from violet to chartreuse. Holiday means sparkle!
· Mixed metals
With gold over $1200 an ounce, customers are seeking options. Blackened textured sterling silver highlighted with flashes of high-karat gold is a strong option, projecting a high-end look without sticker shock. White gold is surging. Smart designers focus on large gems with minimal gold to create an opulent look at sellable price points.
· Back to Nature
Anything organic is in. Nuggets or slices of gems, metals that look hand-worked, engraved messages that look hand-written all have strong appeal. Customers crave artisan-look pieces with a hand-made, one-of-a- kind look.
· Happy Jewelry
Fashion-forward women seek fine jewelry that is fashion-conscious. Designer jewelry “gives retailers the confidence to explore new ways to pair fashion with fine jewelry and satisfy a consumer market trending towards self-purchases,” Belle Etoile notes. Look for more and more self-purchasing women, especially under the $1000 price point. They seek versatile pieces to complement their wardrobes and give themselves a boost. Barbara Garwood shares, “When difficult times abound women want to treat themselves to something and color is a key factor in cheering oneself up. Brilliant colors make for ‘happy jewelry’ and pieces sell themselves right out of the display.”
Jolly’s Jewelers—A Southern Gem
“From almost as soon as I could walk, I greeted customers at the front door of our store. As I grew, I vacuumed and dusted, ran the hand-stamp Pitney machine, helped make home deliveries.” For Frank Jolly Ragsdale of Jolly’s Jewelers (Jollys.com) in Raleigh NC, it’s all in the family. Founded in 1881, the family store spans four generations. The spacious building at the current North Hills Shopping Center location, a beautiful new open air pedestrian mall, boasts gleaming rich original mahogany cases dating 100 years. Reflecting the cross-currents of the capital’s history over the past century and a half, Jolly’s story is the story of the city.
Mr. Ragsdale readily spins a yarn, weaving a web of colorful anecdotes across the time span, “My great grandfather, Benjamin Rush Jolly, founded Jolly’s in downtown Raleigh in 1881.” An inventor and erstwhile grocer, he moved into the jewelry trade.
“His father Nathaniel Jolly was a wheelwright, skilled in forging metals, before the Civil War. During Reconstruction, a new Metropolitan Hall complex was built to rekindle pride in the capital, including a city market, jail, fire department and theater. Nathaniel Jolly was one of the three major contractors on the 1866 theater project.
“In 1888, Jolly’s moved several blocks to Fayetteville Street, taking over a store from cabinetmaker brothers Charles and William Thompson. Their father, William Thompson, was a prominent cabinetmaker. After the Raleigh fire that destroyed the Capital building in 1835, he had refurnished the NC State House and Senate Chambers, building all the chairs, tables and speaker podium.
“My great grandfather Benjamin Rush Jolly married Susan Carolyn Overby. Her father, J.J. Overby, was a Raleigh City Commissioner. As the Civil War ended, Overby was party to the final surrender to Sherman in Raleigh. Skillful negotiations spared the capital from Sherman’s wrath, being burnt, a fate of many other southern cities.
“From 1888 to 1974, Jolly’s in downtown Raleigh was an elegant store in ‘the carriage trade,’ so-called for the stylish carriages of clients who frequented the store. Now they drive BMWs,” recounts Mr. Ragsdale, a twinkle in his eye.
“In 1909, Benjamin Rush Jolly and his son, Frank Moseley Jolly, my grandfather, founded the NC Optometric Society. At the time, jewelers were also optometrists, fabricating frames and fitting them to lenses. The Jollys along with other area businessmen advocated that optometry should be a separate profession with its own standards. Frank Moseley Jolly became a Doctor of Optometry as well as running the family business.
“Disaster struck in 1919, revealing the fragility of life. At the close of World War I, Dr. Frank Moseley Jolly, age 39, caught the influenza that swept the world and died within two days. He left behind his widow, Janie Robbins Jolly, and four children including my mother Susan. My grandmother took over the store. Educated, a school teacher, she was one of the toughest, hardest women, but always a lady. An iron-fisted female, she always told the truth, never exaggerated. With a keen sense of business, she knew how to treat people.
“So began the era of women running the store, from 1919 to 1992. When my grandfather died, my mother Susan was 13. She began running the Jolly household, helping her siblings. In 1928 she graduated from Colombia University with a degree in business and joined my grandmother in running the store. My grandmother, a widow with four children, put all four through college. When my grandmother retired in 1959, my mother took over the business. In our family, women have no limitations. Whatever you decide to do, go for it!
“October 1929. The stock market collapsed. In 1930-31, many banks were failing. Jolly’s heard one of their banks, which held a note for some seasonal debt, was about to collapse. In those days, if the bank failed, any money on deposit was lost. But any obligations to the bank were still due and had to be paid. My mother and grandmother went to the bank and tried to pay off the note but the bankers refused—the standing policy. The two women, facing off against a team of men, thinking quickly, went to Mr. R.P. Holding, Sr. the president and founder of First Citizens Bank and were able pay off the note and transfer the remaining cash to First Citizens. The next day, the original bank failed. Jolly’s still to this day partners with First Citizens Bank, a major North Carolina institution.”
Mr. Ragsdale recalls “I was thrust into the business at age 19 because of an immediate family need. At age 21, I received my Graduate Gemologist and Certified Gemologist degrees. Becoming President in 1978, I took over the store and ran it along side my mother until her death in 1992.”
What does the future hold? “We’ve always specialized in diamonds and bridal. No one 130 years ago could imagine the current climate, with the commoditization of diamonds, competition from world imports and the internet. Bridal, beads and buying gold are currently keeping most businesses open. We now also feature designer Collections, including Mia Katrin for Jewel Couture. The Raleigh-Durham-Chapel Hill area has had a relative advantage because of the proximity of the state government, major research institutions and universities.”
Jolly’s family tradition continues strong. Mr. Ragsdale’s son has just graduated from NC State with degrees in Business Administration and Accounting and a daughter who is a Rising Senior at UNC Chapel Hill. With its time-tested tradition of business and family values—integrity, adaptability and strength—all possibilities are open. The future is bright.
What’s Hot Now—The Designer’s Perspective
The power of fashion. It’s your secret tool. Tap into today’s hottest trends to add excitement, allure and entice your clients.
Featuring designer jewelry creates a cutting-edge climate for your store. Clients aware of designers will seek you out for what’s fresh and on trend.
For the retailer, the designer provides a perfect partner. Inspired by gems and nature, the designer taps the pulse of society. Drawing on the creative impulse, she tweaks current trends and shapes new ones. Your store is her showcase. She’ll provide promotional materials, displays and Trunk Shows. She wants you to succeed. It’s a win-win situation.
Some of today’s hottest trends:
· Color is everywhere. Fresh, bold vibrant colors mix and match in gems and metals. Turquoise is Pantone’s color of the year. Silver, “the new gold” is dominant, accented with gold. The demand for white gold is especially strong for younger clientele. Black diamonds and blackened metals including oxidized steel and cobalt chrome create a modern edgy look.
· What’s old is new. Classics including moonstones and onyx are resurgent. Black and white, always a classic combination, strikes just the right chord in clean, modern pieces. Traditional keepsake jewelry including engraved pendants is on message with affirming contemporary expressions such as "believe" and txt messages. Express yourself!
· Charmed. Personalized bracelets, earrings and necklaces with interchangeable charms are flying off the shelves. It’s nostalgia with a fresh twist. Look for anything that makes pieces personal, not mass-produced.
· The Awards Season’s Impact is reflected in shoulder-duster chandeliers and the new elongated teardrop shape in gem and metal earrings. Big bangle bracelets and stacks of smaller ones remain very popular.
· Artisan and organic. Look for fluid forms inspired by nature including slices of gems and uncut diamonds. Pieces that look hand-worked have particular appeal. A high end look coupled with a raw naturalness perfectly expresses the current tone.
Fashion is fun! Don’t be afraid explore this lucrative dimension to add another engine to your sales. Especially for the self-purchasing woman, style is key. Have design experts on your staff. The store reflecting the most current trends will serve as a magnet to the style-conscious client. Develop your store’s reputation as the go-to store, the one in the know.
The Madoff Plunder
Record Auction Sales Benefit Victims
A platinum Edwardian emerald and diamond link bracelet. Pre-Victorian era diamond earrings. Over 40 watches including 17 Rolexes, one a famed WWII “prisoner watch” valued at $87,000. They were all part of the spoils from the estate of Bernie Madoff, the notorious swindler who bilked investors out of billions in the most devastating Ponzi scheme in history. Madoff is now serving a sentence of 150 years in a NC prison. His wife Ruth, who has not been charged, worked out a deal with prosecutors forfeiting a claim to $80 million in assets. She will be left with $2.5 million.
The US Marshals auction on November 14 by Texas-based auctioneers Gaston & Sheehan was a fascinating glimpse into the lifestyles of the rich and infamous. According to Roland Ubaldo, a spokesman for the US Marshals Service, about $1 million was raised, doubling expectations. The proceeds go to a fund set up to pay restitution to victims.
It’s sign of the times. The greed, the excess, the conspicuous consumption, the lack of social conscience or morality. Many of Madoff’s targets were friends and associates. Elderly couples were robbed of their life’s savings. Philanthropies and non-profits helping the most needy were also hit. It’s a reminder that white collar crime has real victims.
Two pairs of Ruth Madoff's diamond dangle earrings sold for $70,000 each: Lot No. 201, Cartier Art Deco onyx and diamond earrings, estimated pre-auction at $9,800, and Lot No. 218, gold, silver and diamond earrings pre-valued at $21,400.
The jewelry was simple and conservative, much of it in onyx, diamonds and gold, made by prestigious firms such as Bulgari, Hermes, Chaumet and David Webb, according to the Toronto Star. The sale opened with lively bidding for Ruth’s gold bracelet with whale, lighthouse and shell charms, pre-valued at $1000, selling for $3500. Bernie’s Hofstra College ring, estimated at $360, fetched $6,000.
.The most highly prized item in the sale, the Rolex “prisoner watch,” brought only $65,000. All the watches were made in Switzerland, where the international swindler wreaked billions of dollars in losses. Madoff, reportedly wanting his watches in impeccable condition, had them restored, thereby devaluing them for collectors.
Perhaps the most surprising feature was the banality of the offerings. The Madoff’s illicit fortune, staggering by any standards, approximated $65 billion, including numerous yachts and the three homes where most of the trove was seized--their Upper East Side apartment, the beach house in Montauk and the Palm Beach spread. Yet the Madoffs were not connoisseurs or aficionados. They displayed no exceptional taste. "I can't imagine wearing any of this. I think it is so garish," said Lark Mason of The Antiques Roadshow fame. "The items look good with a superficial surface appeal. I think that sums up Mr. Madoff.” (quoted in Reuters.com, Nov. 13, 2009) Auction items included funky knick-knacks, such as a cow-shaped creamer, and a collection of Swatches. This was simply accumulation for its own sake, greed gone amok.
Fascination with celebrity mixed with desire to benefit the victims fueled the bidding. One St. Louis businessman, Lester Miller, 77, bought about 20 bracelets, spending roughly $100,000. He said he would divide them amongst his daughters and granddaughters on an upcoming cruise to Mexico. Though he never met Madoff, he knew several Palm Beach victims. He was pleased to help. “I think it’s a nice thing,” Mr. Miller said. “The more you can bid, the better off you are.” His glittering tokens come with a moral. Asked what he would tell his granddaughters when he gave them the bracelets, he said, “If it’s too good to be true, it’s not right.” (quoted in The New York Times, Nov. 15, 2009)
To Bee or Not to Bee?
Former Secretary of State Albright’s “Pin Diplomacy”
When Madeleine Albright, the former US Secretary of State, donned a wasp pin before an important meeting with Palestinian leader Yasser Arafat, he was visibly disturbed. Brooches had become her diplomatic calling card, a way of non-verbally signifying her mood or intentions. Bees or wasps could signal something like a sting. I wore “wasps on days I wanted to do little stinging and deliver a tough message,” she explains (quoted in “Madeleine Albright’s Jewel-Box Diplomacy,” NPR interview, 9/29/2009, NPR.org).
It all started in 1994 when the Iraqi press referred to her as an “unparalleled serpent.” Taking it in stride, she began wearing a gold and diamond serpent pin, a circa 1860 estate piece, as a badge of honor. “And so then I thought, well, this is fun, so I went and I bought a lot of costume jewelry to kind of fit whatever the issue was we were going to be working on. When people would say, 'What are we going to do today?' or 'How do you feel?,' I said, 'Read my pins.'” (quoted in Newsweek, “The Ambassador’s Jewels,” Eleanor Clift interview, 9/28/2009)
Albright’s collection of roughly 300 diplomatic pins are currently on display through January 31, 2010 at the New York Museum of Arts and Design following the publication of her Read My Pins: Stories from a Diplomat’s Jewel Box. A self-confessed jewelry lover, the former Secretary of State has spoken at Gemological Institute of America conventions and will be honored at the upcoming Jewelry Information Center’s GEM Gala with its Style award.
According to Holly Hotchner, the NY Museum’s Director, Albright discovered that “what she wore…had a lot of interpretive meaning to those she was with. The pins became an added way that she communicated….” (quoted in Associated Press, “Albright’s brooch collection to be shown in NYC,” Ula Ilnytzky, 4/1/09)
In December 1999 a Russian agent was caught listening to signals from a bug planted in a State Department conference room. In her next meeting with Russian officials, Albright handled the tense situation by wearing a large brooch of amethyst, chalcedony and gold in the shape of a bug. Remaining cordial, she let her pin do the talking. The message was received loud and clear.
When she was negotiating the Antiballistic Missile Treaty, she wore wore an arrow-shaped pin. Albright recounts, “All of a sudden the Russian foreign minister looked at me and said, 'Is that one of your interceptors?' and I said, 'Yes, we make them very small.'” (quoted in Newsweek, “The Ambassador’s Jewels,” Eleanor Clift interview, 9/28/2009)
The former Secretary of State’s “pin diplomacy” became so established that foreign leaders would regularly read her pins to interpret her message. President Putin told President Clinton he would look at her pins to try to figure out how she was feeling or what she was trying to say. Albright recounts one incident. “I was very concerned about what the Russians had been doing in Chechnya and denying everything, so I wore the three monkeys, the ‘hear no evil, see no evil, speak no evil’ monkeys, because they were denying what was going on. I'm not really sure he got the message.” (quoted in Newsweek, “The Ambassador’s Jewels,” Eleanor Clift interview, 9/28/2009)
The pin collection includes all-purpose “good mood” pins such as ladybugs, flowers, butterflies and hot-air balloons as well as a “whole menagerie” of more menacing spiders, bees, wasps and crocodiles. When she met with Nelson Mandela, Albright honored his native Africa by wearing a zebra pin. One of her favorites from the collection is dove pin presented to her by Leah Rubin, the wife of assassinated Israeli Prime Minister Yitzhak Rabin.
Throughout history, pins and jewelry have been worn as symbols of power, sending messages. “Interestingly enough, it was mostly men who wore the jewelry in various times, and obviously crowns were part of signals that were being sent throughout history by people of rank,” Albright explains. (quoted in Newsweek, “The Ambassador’s Jewels,” Eleanor Clift interview, 9/28/2009)
“It’s a real icebreaker.” While a man may open a conversation by commenting on a tie or the weather, the first female Secretary of State has discovered a creative use for pins in such situations, taking advantage of her gender. “I love being a woman and I was not one of these women who rose through professional life by wearing men's clothes or looking masculine. I loved wearing bright colors and being who I am.” (quoted in Newsweek, “The Ambassador’s Jewels,” Eleanor Clift interview, 9/28/2009)
Albright has shopped the world for her brooches, including local international bazaars as well as Washington DC’s Tiny Jewel Box, a favorite for her costume pieces. Asked by NY Museum of Arts and Design curators what she would wear now that her collection is unavailable because on display, Albright didn’t miss a beat. “Instead of being concerned, the curators said, she saw it as an opportunity to buy more pins.” (Associated Press, “Albright’s brooch collection to be shown in NYC,” Ula Ilnytzky, 4/1/09)
September 2009
What's Hot Now!
Atlanta August SJTA Show
The hottest trends. The newest looks. They were all there at the August Atlanta Jewelry Show. A preview of what's selling now, what your customers are looking for in Fall/Winter 09:
Interchangeable Is In
From Pandora to Trollbeads, anything with interchangeable components are flying off the shelves. Your customers can design and personalize their own bracelets or necklaces, expressing their individuality. Versatile pieces with a variety of looks in one piece entice. Starting simple and adding on over time adds appeal, especially in this economy. It also drives repeat business for you!
The OWL (Ones We Love) Collection by Kelly Waters offers "Build Your Own Necklaces" with add-on charms in semiprecious gems and Murano glass. Their "Life Expression" Collection "lets her say it to the world," sporting messages from green living to the internet and special causes. The OWL "Minis" are especially hot. For Kameleon, "Change is Natural." Their Jewel Pops in a rainbow of colors like Strawberry Shortcake (rhodochrosite) are all the same size, designed to migrate amongst the entire collection of necklaces, earrings and bracelets. Their rings are their fastest-selling.
It's Personal. Jewelry with a Message
Jewelry that makes a statement is everywhere. Expressing your individuality through pieces with symbols and uplifting messages is in. The cross, fleur de lis and heart pendants in Symbology's Harmony Disc Collection by KC Designs are their most popular.
Inspired by Nature. The Organic Look
Green continues to grow. The organic look is thriving, from earth tones in gems to metals, including blackened steel, oxidized silver and green and brown gold. Nina Nguyen offers necklaces, earrings and bracelets in fluid organic styles with a variety of colors suited to the seasons, such as amethyst for Fall or green amethyst for Spring. According to Nina, gunmetal oxidized silver with vermeil is especially popular. Her collections are manufactured by a rural women's co-op in her native Vietnam, a current trend in transparent manufacturing with an awareness of social causes. Jewelry designed and manufactured by women is a growing trend.
Jewelry with a Story
Everyone loves a story. The Southern Gates Collection by Cargo Hold features exquisite sterling silver filigree designs inspired by Charleston's historic decorative iron gates. They even enlist the support of local college art students in rendering their designs. Such regional flavor adds a local color customers crave, distinguishing a collection from mass-produced "generic" jewelry. Pieces made in the USA, especially by regional designers and artists, add appeal.
As Good as Gold
In challenging economic times, people gravitate to gold. Even with gold hovering at $1000 an ounce, gold is hot. According to Oro International, who features beautiful Italian-made selections, chains are always best sellers. New trends include gold in colors such as chocolate and green.
Color and Pearls, Pearls, Pearls
Color's everywhere. Chocolate's very hot in gems including diamonds and pearls. Pearls in fresh fashion-forward designs with gems are a favorite. The Pearl Exporting Company offers exquisite designer torsades featuring multi-strands of tiny Japanese Akoya Keshi pearls accented with sapphire briolettes.
An abundant palette of offerings awaits to whet your customer's appetite. Tune into what's now. Be fashion-forward and your reputation as a jeweler in the know will help you grow.
July 2009
The Impact of Color!
What's Hot Now
For instant impact, try color. Charged with emotion, color can electrify, command attention, create a mood. Tap this potent tool in your marketing, inventory, even store décor to entice and excite, project an image or set a tone.
"Seeing red," "feeling blue." Emotions are wrapped in color. Colors enliven these feelings. Hot reds, oranges and yellows electrify, stimulate, energize. Cool blues and greens soothe, calm, refresh. Beiges and grays along with black and white are tone neutral, a perfect background foil for more vibrant targeted pops of color. The neutrals' classic appeal project timeless elegance rather than trendiness.
Like crystallized pure light, gems project pure color. The intense effect can be mesmerizing. You can fall in love with a gem. Popular blue violet tanzanite projects a fresh, rich power, both exciting and calming. Deep silver grey lustrous Tahitian pearls convey elegance, power and softness for today's woman.
It's all about color. Designers work with a full palette not only in gems but in metals. Pearls are everywhere in chocolate, pink and green as well as classic cream and grey. Diamonds sparkle in chocolate, black and elegant champagne. Gold is appearing in green, chocolate and pink. Fun "now" colors include fresh, green prasiolite, pink amethyst and a rainbow of multicolored topaz.
Designers and fashionistas are tuned to color. Nothing has as a greater impact. Powerfully single or in combination, it can add a "wow" factor, reflecting the mood of the moment.
"Strong yet understated Iron serves as the 'new black,' making traditional basics much more interesting. Neither gray nor brown, Iron is a grounding color that coordinates well with all colors in the palette," according to Pantone Color Institute, a world council of experts predicting color trends across industries. Their top ten fall '09 colors for women also include Rapture Rose, which "artfully captures the vibrancy of fuchsia and the softness of pink," "Majolica Blue, a deep, mysterious teal blue with more vibrancy than the usual navy, " Burnt Sienna and Warm Olive.
When acting as a color consultant for your clients, make it personal. Ask "What is your birthstone?", "What is your favorite color?" Suggest alternative "new" gems in their favorite palette range: orange-pink Padparadscha sapphires or blue diamonds. Also consider their lifestyle. The conservative executive's image is enhanced by timeless neutrals; for the flamboyant artist, they sky's the limit. Factor in their coloring, including skin tones and hair color ("Aquamarines enhance your blue eyes"), age-appropriateness (more muted over time), even locale (black reigns in NYC, pastels flower in Miami).
What's Hot Now:
· Black and White. A classic combo currently very strong. Look for surprising, fresh new variations, such as black onyx paired with diamonds.
· Blackened Metals and Gold. Blackened steel paired with high-karat gold is a "now" look that's both elegant and edgy. Oxidized silver in combination with gold and gems is very "in."
· Chocolate. Rich, tantalizing, soothing. Chocolates are everywhere: pearls, diamonds, gold. Very hot!
· Surprising Combos. Rings, necklaces and earrings displaying a garden of colors in one piece--pink, green, yellow, violet--abound. Look for unusual pairings such as turquoise and chocolate. Close hues of varying intensity juxtaposed--pinks with rubies, aquamarines with blue sapphires--create an electrifying burst. Explore and have fun! The sky's the limit.
The Pink Panther Heist
Four men--three disguised as long blond-haired women with sunglasses-- requested entry last December 4 to Harry Winston's Jewelers on super-posh Avenue Montaigne in Paris. As they were buzzed in, they pulled out a hand grenade and a .357 Magnum and started smashing the glass display cases. Fifteen minutes later they made a clean getaway in a waiting car with sacks of huge diamonds, emeralds and rubies worth a cool $115 million.
In a bizarre life-imitating-art scenario, Interpol has dubbed the suspected thieves the "Pink Panthers," referencing the famed phantom bandit of movie fame pursued by the comically jinxed Inspector Clouseau. The Pink Panthers are believed to be an international group, about 200 strong, of highly professional, meticulous and daring thieves. Hailing from Serbia, they are said to be responsible for high-profile heists worth more than $132 million at luxury "soft" targets in Dubai, Switzerland, Japan, Germany, Spain and Monaco since 2003. Dusko Poznan and Goran Drazic, purported members of the group, were arrested before the Dec. 4 robbery. Lloyds of London, Winston's insurers, have issued a $1 million reward for information leading to the recovery of the jewels.
This was not the Pink Panthers' first heist. In Dubai last year, members of the group allegedly rammed through Graff's in two Audis, grasping $3.4 million in diamonds and exiting in the same cars. The event, captured on video, became a YouTube favorite with over 200,000 hits. In Graff's Tokyo, the Pink Panthers hit previously in 2004. In three minutes, they made off with $38 million in rare yellow diamonds, including a 125 carat necklace, the Comtesse de Vendome, worth $31.5 million, also captured on video.
The modus operandi of the Pink Panthers is "brazen, very fast, very well-organized," according to police sources. They characteristically case the targeted venues for a week or more, even learning the salespersons' names.
The bane of jewelers, the jewel thief, at times may achieve a colorful notoriety, earning a "treasured" spot in the pantheon of scoundrels. Movies glorify their cunning, daring and high-profile glamorous targets. Combining danger, fabulous jewels and meticulous execution, their heists are the stuff of legend. In a Bonnie and Clyde scenario, the thieves may become celebrated, even glorified. Boban Stojkovic, a member of the Pink Panthers cadre sentenced before the December 4 robbery, is described by his attorney as a "gentleman bandit," "extremely polite and nice."
"Because that's where the money is," Willy Sutton, the thief, famously replied to the query "Why do you rob banks?" Jewelry stores are similarly natural targets. Jewelers take note. You can never be too careful. Although the Pink Panthers target the highest echelon of international targets, stores profiling coveted luxury items are always at risk. Closer to home, in Palm Beach this January Lee Havens Fine Jewelry on Worth Avenue was victimized, the robber reportedly escaping with $4 million in merchandise.
The December Harry Winston theft was the second burglary at the Paris store in a year. The previous year's heist netted over $13 million in jewels. The beleaguered jeweler seems to have adopted a note of caution. Immediately after the current robbery, passers-by the celebrated shop, now closed with shutters, viewed in its famed display case, rather than jewels, a large photograph of the missing pieces.
January 2009
Jeweler’s Profile Part II
Passion and Poetry
Ron Ringsrud’s World of Emeralds
“One must speak clearly about clear stones…about ancestral rock…about the emerald’s green fire.” Ron Ringsrud’s passion for the beauty of emeralds is infectious as he quotes Nobel Laureate Pablo Neruda, one of his favorite poets. Ron’s soon-to-be-released Emeralds: A Passionate Guide (available late March through amazon.com) is a labor of love reflecting this passion. It will offer gems of knowledge “known only to connoisseurs and gemologists” as well as “the human side of the emerald world…revealed with all its romance, history, secrets and joy.”
One of today’s premier emerald dealers, Ron has just been elected to the Board of the American Gem Trade Association. “I’ve been a member for 15 years and want to participate more. Many good people are involved and we can bring a lot of progress.”
A high priority on his agenda for progress is the promotion of the Fair Trade Movement. The blockbuster film “Blood Diamond” drew mainstream attention to Africa’s “conflict diamonds”—diamonds used to finance violent, corrupt regimes while exploiting dirt-poor artesanal (small-scale) miners. Today’s Fair Trade Movement reflects the burgeoning awareness of the need for world-wide transparent, ethical sources of production, including social justice—fair wages and a decent standard of living for the artesanal miner.
Regarding mining conditions, “Colombia at its worst is better than Africa at its best,” according to Ron. “The people are poor, but not starving.” The new breed of Colombian mine owners, often young MBAs, reflect a new social consciousness. “They are arranging buses to take the miners’ children to school.” Colombia has come a long way since the seedy “Wild West” days of the early 1980s. “2009 is to be the ‘Big Year of Pride and Progress.’”
Ron’s love for his adopted second “home away from home” is obvious. “Colombians are a spiritual people—poets—the warmest, nicest people you’ll ever meet. The stereotype of the Colombian drug lord actually reflects only the tiniest fraction of the population.”
Ron’s passion for the Land of Emeralds and its people is reflected in his strong commitment to local charities. Two of his favorites are a rehabilitation center for disadvantaged youth founded by a Catholic priest and The Theater Workshop in Bogota, which trains homeless “street people” for employment in the theater arts. “My local charity activities have helped me gain a good reputation in the region.”
A cutting-edge development in the new environmental awareness is the idea of “giving back to the land.” In this view, “the Earth is seen not as a resource for consumption, but as a natural, living thing that we should have stewardship over and respect for.” Giving back to the land is an act of appreciation, an offering of thanks. Starting in 2000, Ron participated in a ceremony of emerald industry members in Bogota, sprinkling emeralds onto a tray of earth. Symbolically a gift was being offered back to the Earth for the immense treasures it provides. The experience was so positive, it has been repeated regularly and even expanded to the Colored Gem Show in Tucson AZ.
“Offering back to the Earth is based in ancient traditions,” Ron reveals. Shinto priests in Japan would pray for the souls of the oysters destroyed in the pearl harvest. In Colombia, the native Cogi Indians of the Sierra Nevada believe we suffer sickness and pollution because we neglect to give back to the land. This newest wave of environmental awareness is a revival of ancient cultural roots. Offering thanks completes the circle.
Neruda’s poem “The Emerald,” inspired by a visit to the Colombian Muzo mine, is quoted on Ron’s website (http://emeraldmine.com). “When everything was high…there waited the cold emerald…it was a vigilant eye at heaven’s center…the emerald that looked on…as if it were an ocean-eye…drop of God….” Expressing the awesome beauty of emeralds, the soul of a poet reflects the wisdom of the ages.
December 2008
Jeweler’s Profile
Colombia—Land of Contrasts
Ron Ringsrud— Premier Emerald Dealer
Picture the scene—like something from the old Wild West. As you enter the rough and tumble gem mine in Colombia in the 1980s “every gem mine owner had on his desk a bottle of whiskey, a gun, and a prostitute behind him,” according to Ron Ringsrud, who started visiting during that era. “Today, the mine owner is most likely a young MBA, drinking yogurt, meekly nodding ‘Yes, dear’ to his wife on the phone.”
Rich Colombia is indeed a land of contrasts, ranging from magnificent emeralds—the best in the world—breathtaking scenery and a warm, spiritual people to the seedy underbelly of drug trafficking and cartels.
Ron, recently elected to the Board of Directors of the American Gem Trade Association (AGTA), and with his new book Emeralds: A Passionate Guide about to launch, shared in this exclusive interview how his love affair with this colorful country began.
“I had spent some time living in Colombia right after college and knew a bit of Spanish. Returning home to LA, in need of a job, I serendipitously responded to newspaper ad for a warehouse box mover at GIA (Gemological Institute of America). After three months, they told me I could take GIA courses for free. As I quickly progressed through the courses, I started getting better jobs there—selling tweezers and microscopes.” Soon, Ron had a Graduate Gemologist (GG) degree.
When Ron noticed in a magazine that Colombia had the best emeralds in the world, a spark ignited. “I already had the connections.” His first gem-buying expedition to Colombia was an adventure. “It was 11 hours by jeep from Bogata to the mining district. The hotels had more stray dogs than humans.”
“The mines are very shrouded and closed. The locals want to know who you are, who you know, who you’re with. You don’t enter without their invitation.” Luckily, the locals warmed to this gringo who knew their language and was genuinely interested in developing relationships. He wasn’t there just to buy and leave. He got a few small stones. And so it began.
“The colored stones business is great. Each colored stone has immeasurable qualities—fire, life, transparency and play of color—that make it unique. Arriving at the price of a colored stone requires old-fashioned, low-tech, face-to-face negotiation. This keeps the business lively, charming and very human.”
“The main mines are Muzo, Cosquez, and the newest, La Pita—since 1999 the rising star. La Pita has yielded $100 million a year for five years, suddenly making rich and powerful men out of young miners and investors. New visionary, clear-headed business leaders are emerging, with greater environmental and social awareness.”
Ron has been selling at the annual Tucson show for years (Ronald Ringsrud Co., http://emeraldmine.com). His business took a quantum leap in 1986 when he published his first article in Gems & Gemology magazine on the Cosquez mine. Suddenly he had an established reputation, a different level of clientele. Today a leading industry expert, Ron’s most recent article in Gems & Gemology describes the “gota de aceite” or “butterfly-wing” emerald, a highly prized specimen only found in Colombia.
As a young, single entrepreneur, Ron enjoyed the risks of exploring an edgy, emerging market. Today, as a premier emerald dealer, Ron sells to top dealers and jewelers and provides specimens for collectors. His most expensive sale was a 12 carat stone for $120,000. He sometimes takes his wife Linda and 13 year-old twins to visit this land he loves. “I’m proud to be able to support my wife, a full-time mom, and boys from my profession.”
Next month: Jeweler’s Profile Part II: Passion and Poetry—Ron Ringrud’s World of Emeralds: future agenda for AGTA, upcoming book launch, Fair Trade Movement, charity benefits, giving back to the Earth, and more!
The Affair of the Necklace
Romance. Scandal. Intrigue.
There’s something magical about a necklace. Thirteen women in Ventura CA recently embarked on an adventure that transformed their lives when they collectively purchased as $37,000 diamond necklace. Appearing on Good Morning America, they promoted their book The Necklace: Thirteen Women And the Experiment That Transformed Their Lives. Talks for a movie are in the works.
When the perfect strand of diamonds caught Jonell McLain’s eye at the window of Van Gundy’s Jewelers, a spark was ignited. Not one that would normally invest that amount on a luxury impulse buy, Jonell nevertheless couldn’t get the necklace out of her mind. She started thinking creatively. What if some friends were interested in sharing it? A plot was hatched. Thirteen women would share the necklace, each having it for one month—a “time-share” for jewelry—including Priscilla Van Gundy, the store owner’s wife.
“Jewelia,” the newly-named necklace, would be used for fundraising efforts to support charities. The thirteen women, ages 50-62, discovered a newfound fellowship that deeply touched and transformed each of their lives. Jewelia re-ignited routine marriages. “It made me feel sexy again.” The necklace was worn for special occasions—“it made me feel like a movie star”—as well as boogie-boarding in Hawaii. It gave a sense of hope, of second chances, of a new life, of rebirth. “I felt alive.” It bonded the women together in unexpected ways. “What had been a symbol of exclusivity became a symbol of inclusivity.
The story touches a nerve. It taps into the current trends of women buying their own jewelry, of jewelry being used to promote charities and of innovative techniques for people to own a piece of something spectacular—renting designer dresses, handbags and jewelry.
This is not the first story of the transformative value of a special necklace. De Maupassant’s classic The Necklace tells the story of a wife of modest means who, craving something more, borrows her neighbor’s diamond necklace for a special party. In a Cinderella moment, she metamorphoses into the belle of the ball. Every eye is upon her. As she returns home, she is mortified to discover she has lost the necklace! Biting the bullet, she and her husband take out a massive loan, replace the necklace (they are too ashamed to reveal they have lost it), and spend the next decade of their lives working to repay the loan, sinking into a life of drudgery and near poverty. A chance meeting when the loan is finally repaid uncovers an ironic twist. The neighbor reveals the necklace was paste, inexpensive costume jewelry. The couple’s lives had been determined by the unnecessary repayment of a debt which was not due.
A necklace can not only transform the life of a individual or a group, it can even transform a society. The Affair of the Necklace, the 2001 movie starring Hilary Swank, reveals the real-life scandal involving Marie Antoinette that helped precipitate the French Revolution. It’s a colorful tale involving romance, scandal and intrigue that could hardly be imagined if it weren’t true!
In 1772 Louis XV commissions a spectacular necklace for his mistress, Mme.du Barry. The Crown Jewelers Broehmer and Bassenge take several years to assemble a world-class collection of large diamonds and fashion them into a magnificent elaborate design. Unfortunately, Louis XV’s untimely death almost bankrupts the jewelers who have not yet been paid for the piece. Enter Jeanne de La Motte-Valois, an orphan who, fighting to restore her name and place in society, hatches a plot to sell the necklace to Marie Antoinette. Jeanne collaborates with Cardinal Prince Rohan, an out-of-favor courtier. The fascinating plot involves a famous mystic, Count Cagliostro, romantic intrigues—including Jeanne’s affair with the Cardinal—and secret meetings with mistaken identities.
Although Marie Antoinette ultimately refuses the necklace (perhaps she did not want a piece designed for another woman, and a mistress at that!), she becomes embroiled in the widely publicized trial which further tarnishes her reputation, already weakened by gossip and scandal. The resulting strain on the monarchy hastens its collapse…the French Revolution.
So the next time you put that special necklace in your display case, think for a moment. How will this transform someone’s life? The truth may be magic.
September 2008
The Lore and Lure of Gems
Sparkling. Enticing. Enchanting. Do you secretly covet a large, flawless diamond? Are you mesmerized by the rich beauty of emeralds? Do you treasure tantalizing tanzanite?
Throughout the ages, gems have captivated us with their alluring magic. The ancient Egyptians revered midnight-blue lapis lazuli, pairing it with purest gold in striking ornaments for their royal pharaohs. In the India of antiquity, rubies were known as the “king of gems”. Warriors, believing these precious gems to convey invincibility, wore them into battle for protection. The Chinese have venerated jade for millennia, considering it a celestial blessing, a harbinger of happiness and prosperity. Rich purple amethyst, included in the British Crown Jewels, has been favored by both royalty and clergy. According to lore, its influence helps prevent drunkenness! Shining turquoise, the color of the sky, was sacred to the American Indian, and is still widely used in Native American jewelry.
The ancient lore surrounding precious gems fosters a mystique. We are captivated by their charm. Who does not know his own birthstone? Mother’s rings, featuring the children’s birthstones, remain a popular cherished tradition.
Even the world-weary sceptic has a soft spot for romance. It’s the spice of life. Do you cast a curious glance at your daily horoscope? Or play your “lucky numbers” in the lottery? Even Scrooge eventually succumbed to the spirit of Christmas, the magic of seeing the world through the joy and awe of a child. Love spawns the greatest romance, for love has the highest transformative power. Even though “once bitten” by love, not only incurable romantics throw caution to the wind to grasp again for the brass ring of happiness. The romance is the dream. What could be more captivating than a perfect, pure diamond as a pledge of this shared dream of happiness? A diamond is forever.
The subtle effects of gems are legend. Stone cutters of yore would rejuvenate their fatigued eyes by gazing at emeralds, considered to have restorative powers for vision. Today’s “New Age” resurgent interest in crystals touts the subtle effects of quartz, tourmaline, tiger eye, carnelian—most natural gems—especially in their original or crystalline form. Often used directly for healing purposes, such as in massage therapy, these “healing stones” are also popularly incorporated into talismans and amulets.
Jewels project power. Traditionally the domain of royalty, precious gems have been incorporated into Crown Jewels throughout the ages. Coronation—crowning the monarch with precious gems—conveys their potency, symbolically bestowing royalty, even divinity. Some world-class jewels, such as the Hope Diamond, are so compelling they generate their own legends. According to ancient lore, the magnificent blue Hope was the stolen eye from the statue of an Indian deity, resulting in the gem’s “curse”. Owned throughout the ages by a plethora of the world’s royalty and elite, including Louis XIV of France, it was eventually acquired by jeweler extraordinaire Harry Winston, who gifted it to the Smithsonian Museum, its current home.
Do you believe? Tap into the romance of stones. Nourish the dream. Successful salespeople are aware of the power of the lore of gems. They romance the sale. The secret key to sales is that ultimately you sell yourself. A genuine love of gems is infectious. Through nourishing their lore, you nurture yourself. Spinning the web of romance, you unfurl your dream. The captivating lore and lure of gems is a self-fulfilling prophecy.
April 2008
Angeli Puri…Miss India-World
International Jewelry Designer and Women’s Advocate
Jeweler’s Profile
"Out of a great loss, I got a great business.” So Angeli Kapoor Puri, internationally celebrated jewelry designer, businesswoman, promoter of the Miss India-Angelworld contest, and advocate for women’s rights, describes her dramatic introduction into the jewelry business. “I was born in East Africa, but grew up in India. I married into a jewelry family. My father-in-law had previously, at the time of Indian Independence (1947), quietly bought from various Maharajas (princes) collections from their Crown jewels, which they were at the time interested in divesting.” Many Maharajas, rich with treasures of jewels available in India, formerly had their Crown Jewels designed by very prestigious European jewelry houses, such as Cartier, who took the native jewels and designed them into fabulous Crown Jewels for the princes.
"So as a young bride, I had access to these fabulous world-class jewels to wear. However, I was love-struck, married for love, and did not appreciate these treasures, which did not fit my casual life-style and dress at the time. What you don’t value, you lose. One night, while our family was staying at a hotel, a burglar broke in and, threatening my mother at knife-point, stole the entire priceless Collection. I was devastated, and decided I had to try to recreate these incredible treasures. This was the beginning of my transformation.”
Angeli Puri, who divides her time living in London and Delhi, also frequently travelling to Dubai, Singapore and the US, continues, “I decided to take jewelry classes in London, trying to re-create what was lost. I discovered I could not really re-create them, but instead, discovered I had a knack for design, and started my own Collections, inspired by old-world style, but with a modern sensibility—a blend of old and new. So began my career as a jewelry designer. My Collections were, through social connections, picked up by celebrities and featured in prominent boutiques, and sold very well. Today, my company has two basic lines, a fashion line and a high-end Collection featuring diamonds only, especially rose-cut diamonds.” (http://www.theangelworld.com)
"My love of jewelry continues to this day. Although I have expanded into diverse business ventures, I keep getting drawn back into jewelry.” Angeli Puri’s family is involved in international real estate, and she frequently visits incredibly affluent Dubai, a burgeoning international center for high-end jewelry, and indeed, every possible luxury item. “Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie recently bought real estate there.”
Through her established connections with celebrities and “Bollywood” (Indian film) stars, Angeli Puri was asked to judge the Miss India-Worldwide contest in South Africa. “Again, a transformation.” Angeli Puri formed her own company, Miss India-Angelworld, and remains very active to this day, frequently travelling around the world to help sponsor and promote this platform. Not just a traditional “beauty contest,” the program seeks justice and empowerment for women world-wide: all proceeds from the contest go directly to benefiting the status of women.
A passionate advocate for the role of women, Angeli Puri draws attention to the standing of women in India. “Although women have equal rights according to the Indian Constitution, in reality, India is still a patriarchal culture. Even practices such as selective abortion and infanticide of females are not uncommon. We seek to draw attention to these unjust practices, so they can be eliminated, and women can be empowered.” She is currently helping organize a peace conference sponsored in Jaipur, India, focusing on developing future women leaders and role models for the world.
This truly exceptional, international, multi-faceted woman is herself an exemplary model, shining in all areas of life, empowering by example. Combining her natural resourcefulness with the wisdom of experience, she has expanded her own transformations to the widest possible platform, helping to transform the world.
March 2008
Go Green! The Greening of Jewelry
The world is going green. From hybrid cars to natural foods, from “An Inconvenient Truth” to carbon footprints, green is “in.” Leonardo di Caprio poses with Knut the baby polar bear on the cover of Vanity Fair, highlighting global warming. Green is everywhere, mainstream and sexy. The new global awareness spans concerns for our environmental impact, ethical sources of production and issues of social justice. By tapping into this important trend, jewelry manufacturers and retailers can connect with their clients’ burgeoning awareness. Jewelers who demonstrate their social conscience help win their client’s confidence. Tune in, tap into the trend, and help transform the world. It’s a win-win situation.
Today we walk more lightly on the Earth. Environmentally aware manufacturers monitor the impact of their jewelry production techniques, bringing transparency to sources of production. “Green gold” producers recycle gold or promote innovative projects such as “Standard Zero,” which helps sustain artisanal mining in some of the poorest areas of the world. “Green silver” designer John Hardy’s policy of “sustainable luxury” includes planting bamboo to offset its company’s carbon footprint. Why does this matter to you? Because it matters to your increasingly sophisticated clients. By demonstrating environmental awareness, you reveal to your clients our common concern for the future of our planet, gaining their allegiance and trust. Good ethics means good business.
The global Fair Trade Movement focuses attention on ethical sources of production. By the time the film “Blood Diamond” was released, the crisis in “conflict diamonds” had already peaked. De Beers proactive introduction of the self-monitoring Kimberly Process had already averted major violations—only an estimated one percent of the world’s diamond supply still involved potentially questionable sources. Currently the concern for Myanmar rubies supporting corrupt regimes and the subsequent industry-wide boycott shows ethical sourcing is a trend here to stay. These are selling points for all those with a conscience.
“Jewelry for a cause” is a hot major trend. Celebrities and politicians sporting Lance Armstrong’s Livestrong bracelet wear their hearts on their sleeve…or at least their wrist. Ubiquitous pink ribbon pins reveal jewelers tapping into this trend, pledging a portion of their profits to the Cure. It’s a way of giving back and a way of making people feel good about buying, especially perceived “guilty pleasure” luxury items. Be creative. Feature your own favorite cause into your next promotion. Create special events for charities. Promote your project and have a wider impact. You can make a difference.
Today’s “jewelry with a message” replaces traditional spiritual themes with updated world themes. Buddhist and yoga pendants are especially popular among the ever-increasing market share of jewelry bought by women. Talismans and amulets featuring messages of planetary peace and harmony reflect the global atmosphere of today’s jewelry.
In jewelry design, organic themes from nature such as bamboo, leaves and stars are everywhere, a nod to the new green awareness. Organic, fluid, asymmetric and complex designs derived from nature are reflected in mutli-strand necklaces with myriads of gem colors and shapes. Jewelry featuring mixtures of metals and other natural materials— including leather and wood—proliferate.
The ultimate “green” jewelry is jewelry that’s…green! Look for this important cutting-edge trend to continue. Green gems such as prasiolite or “green amethyst,” the ever-popular turquoise, emeralds, peridot, jade, green tourmaline, green diamonds and even green gold are showing strong. Green is the traditional symbol of Spring, of rebirth. As the current political climate reveals, change and hope are in the air. It’s a green new world. By tapping into this growing positive trend, we can be part of this all-winning transformation.
October 2007
Armand Asher--A Passion for Pearls
JEWELERS PROFILE
"If diamonds or gold, rather than pearls, had been the focus of my father's company, I wouldn't be in the jewelry business today." Armand Asher's passion for pearls is infectious. As President, for years, of the Cultured Pearl Association of America, he has commanded the perfect platform to share his appreciation for this "most unique" of all the gems: "Pearls are ancient.their lore echoes through the ages. They are from living organisms, unlike other gems. Each one is different."
His enthusiasm for sharing his knowledge makes Asher a natural teacher. Recently appearing with Martha Stewart on her television show in "Pearls 101," he shared tips with the audience on "updating your grandmother's pearls"-from care and restringing, to creating fashion-forward designs. As they went to commercial break, the directors commented, "You're a natural. Have you done this before?" Actually, Asher has been a spokesperson for pearls for years, generously sharing his expertise through the top jewelers' associations: GIA, AGTA, AGS, RJO.... "So little is generally known about pearls relative to other gems, such as diamonds. My mission is to expand people's awareness of this special gem."
In today's market, pearls are hot, and their popularity is increasing rapidly. "The quantity of pearls being sold doubles every ten years," according to Asher. But these are not your grandmother's pearls. "In the 1950s and 60s, pearls were very limited, basically to the traditional Akoya strand. My father, Albert Asher, was a pioneer in introducing the large South Sea pearls to the U.S. When they first hit the market here, no one knew what to do with themthey were so large! Early top designers such as David Webb and Arthur King helped popularize these gorgeous gems by accentuating their beauty in extravagant designs." Today's cutting-edge styles feature the full range of pearl sizes, colors, and shapes, from the unusual baroque to the large white and golden South Sea and dramatic dark Tahitian. Their opulence and palette beckons the imaginative designer with limitless creative possibilities.
"The fact that women are now buying more of their own jewelry has also added to the increased popularity of pearls-perhaps the most feminine of gems," Asher notes. "It's great that women are now so visible in the jewelry industry-as designers, manufacturers, and retailers."
As a child, Asher used to visit his father’s store in New York City’s jewelry district and relish the “marbles” he was given to play with. Within a few years, he was a “runner,” making local deliveries. But born of immigrant parents, he was expected to “move up” in the world, to become a lawyer or doctor. At Cornell, Asher did pursue medicine, but soon found he was more interested in nutritional science—in promoting health, rather than analyzing disease. After attending medical school in Europe, he followed his love of food, opening a successful bakery selling cheesecake in upstate New York. But when his business partner was lured away to pursue a lucrative Wall Street career, it was a time of reckoning. Asher thought he would give his father’s business a try.
The rest is history. “It was fate.” Everything clicked, and for 24 years, Asher has been with the company his father founded, Albert Asher Pearls (580 Fifth Ave., 29th Floor, NY, NY 10036, www.asherpearl.com, a division of Albert Asher Inc.). “Pearls speak to me. You have to follow your passion.” Serendipitously, the culturing of pearls resonated with Asher’s background in agriculture. “It’s fascinating to visit pearl farms around the world—in the Philippines, Fiji and Tahiti, New Zealand and Australia, China, the Sea of Cortez….and explore the different societies and business models in each area. Actually, there is only a small group of people world-wide involved in the culturing of pearls.”
Currently, Asher is working with JCK Magazine, preparing an article on the “green” cultivation of pearls. “The environmental aspect touches me. A Philippine study has indicated that a mere one percent rise in temperatures world-wide will decrease oyster growth. Pearl crops also face obstacles from salinity, pollution, and monoculture cultivation, which decreases the crop’s resistance to new environmental threats.”
What tips does this world-renowned pearl expert have for the retail vendor of pearls? “There’s a tremendous growth opportunity. Most stores make less than 10 percent of their retail sales in pearls. Pearls, unlike diamonds, do not have a universal grading system. Although this might appear a disadvantage, it opens up a potentially greater profit margin. Pearls can be a cash cow.”
How to reap this advantage? “First, work with a very reputable pearl dealer—someone who’s been in the business for decades, and visits the pearl farms regularly…a ‘pearl sightholder,’ such as we are. You must know and trust your supplier. Secondly, have your sales staff learn, learn, learn about pearls! Through books, GIA courses, newsletters, going to pearl seminars at shows and talking to pearl dealers there—they should continually update their knowledge. This gives confidence to the client. Also, rather than having customers focus on lab certificates, as they do buying diamonds, let them know it’s OK to be more trusting of the salesperson’s own instincts."
Above all, “You have to be passionate about what you do. This is the most important factor in any type of sales. Many people in the jewelry business start out with a real love of gems and beautiful jewelry, but as time goes by, they get wrapped up in mortgage payments, the college fund for the kids....I want to rekindle that initial joy of the wonder of gems, the beauty of exquisite jewels.” If Asher’s life is any indication, he has already succeeded. He is a perfect embodiment of his own philosophy, spreading knowledge and appreciation through his passion for pearls.
ABOUT MIA KATRIN
Mia Katrin regularly tours the country, from Las Vegas to Boca Raton, Asheville to Philadelphia, presenting her Collections in Trunk Shows where they are received with great excitement and enthusiasm! As well as her couture Collections, she offers the new affordably priced Jewel Casual Collection in 14 karat gold and sterling silver with gems. Available through JEWEL COUTURE LLC, the Collections are regularly featured in top national media publications, such as Rapaport Report, Jewelers Circular Keystone, Southern Jewelry News, Mid America Jewelry News and Texas Jewelers. She is a monthly byline columnist for Southern Jewelry News.
Mia Katrin has a doctorate in aesthetics from the University of Chicago. Having designed jewelry for many years, she has travelled extensively around the world, collecting world-class precious gems, from Columbian emeralds to Sri Lankan sapphires to Tahitian pearls. She has studied metalsmithing from master goldsmiths.
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